In a recent article in The New York Times titled “Our National Eating Disorder,” author Michael Pollon examines a gluttonous American contradiction.

“Compared to the French, we’re more likely to choose foods for reasons of health,” Pollon states, “and yet the French, more apt to choose on the basis of pleasure, are the healthier (and thinner) people. How can this possibly be?”

The article explains this dilemma by drawing parallels between America’s apprehensive, under-evolved approach to food and the resulting overconsumption.

“A well-developed culture of eating, such as you find in France or Italy,” Pollon continues, “mediates the eaters’ relationship to food, moderating consumption even as it prolongs and deepens the pleasure of eating.” Pollon goes on to describe the “American paradox,” which he describes as “notably unhealthy people obsessed by the idea of eating healthy.”

Although these psychological relationships to food are supported by plenty of evidence, the idea of Americans being “obsessed” with eating healthy is questionable. As well versed as we’ve become regarding calories and carbohydrates, our concern for food’s nutrition is transient by comparison. It doesn’t seem that the problem America is obsessed with is one of health, but of fat. Although we may be robbing ourselves of pleasure to rid ourselves of fat, we are none the healthier (or happier) as a result.

Many of us have inflicted a systematic lack of willpower upon ourselves by “punishing” our bodies. We are afraid of being overweight, so we starve our bodies of nutrients, such as carbohydrates, and when we can’t take it anymore, we gorge ourselves. This does not help us lose weight or benefit our health.

Countries such as France are healthier not only because their citizens savor their meals, but also because they have a deep understanding of how and why their cuisine is achieved. Their respect for a good wine or a fine cheese comes from their knowledge of the time and consideration involved in making it. When one’s diet is considered only for convenience, (obvious) fat content and cost, that person is doing his or herself a disservice. Cheap, easy meals are rarely fresh enough to retain the nutrients one needs and lack of vitamins often promotes hunger. One is better off satisfying his or her stomach now and then with quality food that may contain a little fat rather than devouring advertised “low-fat” snacks loaded with preservatives and hidden artificial ingredients.

Pollon’s article suggests that we, as a nation, are stifling our senses and our overall progress by the anxiety with which we regard our meals. It implies that if we were to let ourselves be guided gracefully by our palate, we could treat our meals sacredly enough to master the art of restraint. While this does seem like an answer, we must realize what composes a seemingly indulgent yet nutritional diet.

If we choose to look past all the fad diets and quick fixes and perhaps relax a bit, we can not only become healthier, but we can bring true pleasure back to the table.

Columns reflect the opinion of the author and not necessarily that of the Northern Star staff.